economy
February 28, 2026
'A temple of food': London’s grande dame Simpson’s in the Strand rises again
As the storied London dining room reopens on its bicentenary, restaurateur Jeremy King honours its heritage while restoring a faded icon
TL;DR
- Simpson's in the Strand, founded in 1828, is reopening for its 200th anniversary.
- Restaurateur Jeremy King, known for reviving other London eateries, is behind the reopening.
- The restaurant was an institution favored by literary figures like Charles Dickens and Winston Churchill.
- Simpson's introduced wheeled trolleys for serving roast beef and used the term 'bill of fare' instead of 'menu' to emphasize British food.
- Women were not permitted in the main dining room until 1984.
- King views reviving Simpson's as 'the apotheosis of my career' and has pursued ownership for over 20 years.
- Critics like Jimi Famurewa and Ben McCormack believe King is the right person to rejuvenate the restaurant, which had become dated.
- McCormack notes that King's restaurants focus on the guest experience and how diners feel, rather than solely on the food.
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