travel

January 12, 2026

‘Waves break right on to the bus windscreen’: a car-free trip along County Antrim’s dramatic coast

Three trains, two buses and a ferry take our writer from Essex to Northern Ireland, to enjoy wild swims, whiskey, sandy beaches and the Giant’s Causeway

‘Waves break right on to the bus windscreen’: a car-free trip along County Antrim’s dramatic coast

TL;DR

  • The author traveled from Essex to Northern Ireland's Antrim coast using three trains, two underground stops, two buses, and a ferry.
  • Experiences included wild swims in the sea, stays at Ballygally Castle and the Portrush Adelphi hotel, and hikes in locations like Sallagh Braes.
  • Visits were made to Glenarm Castle, the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge, the Giant's Causeway, and the Bushmills distillery.
  • The journey also involved exploring local crafts, such as basket making with Louise McLean.
  • The Antrim coast is described as offering fine beaches, wild landscapes, and opportunities for a sustainable break.

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