economy

January 2, 2026

From bon appetit to Uber Eats: why France’s beloved restaurants are in crisis

When I started as a reporter in Paris in the 1970s, long, boozy lunches were the norm. Now only fast food and fine dining are thriving

From bon appetit to Uber Eats: why France’s beloved restaurants are in crisis

TL;DR

  • Approximately 25 French restaurants are closing every day, signaling a deep crisis in the sector.
  • Changing lifestyles, including reduced alcohol consumption and shorter dining times among younger generations, are impacting traditional dining.
  • The rise of home-delivery services and "dark kitchens" competes with established restaurants.
  • Rising wholesale food prices and competition from fast-food chains make it difficult for traditional restaurants to increase prices.
  • Changes in tax rules, such as VAT differences for eat-in vs. takeaway, and the ability to use luncheon vouchers in supermarkets, have hurt businesses.
  • The shift to remote and hybrid work models means fewer office workers are dining out daily.
  • The 35-hour work week has influenced restaurant operating hours, and staffing has become more challenging.
  • While government grants during COVID-19 lockdowns provided temporary relief, business has not returned to pre-pandemic levels.
  • Restaurateurs are forced to choose between cost-cutting with pre-cooked food or higher-cost, quality-focused menus.

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