travel
February 1, 2026
Island-hopping in Sweden: an enchanted maze of tiny isles
From a bioluminescent nightime sea to rare wildlife, natural wonders are on tap in the Gothenburg archipelago

TL;DR
- The northern Gothenburg archipelago offers a natural escape with islands accessible by bus, ferry, and a coastal trail.
- Bioluminescent plankton and jellyfish create a magical light show in the waters at night.
- Sweden's definition of an island is any land mass over 9 sq metres, leading to over 260,000 islands.
- The coastal trail involves navigating boulder fields and scrambling, offering an adventurous experience.
- The archipelago has a history tied to folk music, notably Evert Taube, and a past of smuggling ('Moonshine Bay').
- The old church on Öckerö features dramatic 1792 ceiling frescoes depicting hell and salvation, which instilled fear in local children.
- Activities include kayaking, hiking, boat trips, and rock climbing.
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