Spain has banned Francoist symbols. So why are there still kitsch cafes glorifying the dictator?
These unsettling and unusual places tell a vivid story about the unique way that Spain deals with its past – or fails to.

TL;DR
- Several bars and restaurants in Spain openly glorify Francisco Franco and his dictatorship, displaying portraits, symbols, and playing Francoist music.
- These establishments, some forming a 'Ruta 36' highway pilgrimage, challenge Spain's recent Democratic Memory Law, which prohibits symbols glorifying the dictatorship in public spaces.
- The implementation of the law faces challenges, with authorities reportedly slow to open inquiries against these establishments.
- The National Francisco Franco Foundation, dedicated to honoring Franco's legacy, has received public grants, and donations were partially tax-deductible.
- Advancements in historical memory include renaming the Valley of the Fallen and planning a museum, but significant work remains in areas like identifying bodies from mass graves and school implementation.