travel
February 15, 2026
‘The most quietly romantic town we have ever visited’
Writers from George Eliot to Goethe put this Lombardy town on the map, then it fell out of fashion. Today it makes a picture-perfect alternative to the Italian lakes
TL;DR
- Chiavenna, located in Lombardy near the Swiss border, was once a popular destination for writers such as George Eliot, Edith Wharton, Mary Shelley, and Goethe.
- It offers a picturesque alternative to the Italian lakes, with a location at the foot of the Alps, surrounded by chestnut woods and bisected by the River Mera.
- Attractions include natural caves (crotti) used for storage and socialising, many of which now house restaurants and bars serving local specialties like sciatt and gnocchi alla chiavennasca.
- The area features hiking and cycling trails through spectacular landscapes, including waterfalls, glacially sculpted rocks, and ancient mule tracks, as well as historical sites like Palazzo Vertemate Franchi and the Acquafraggia waterfalls.
- Visitors can explore the town's cobbled alleys, ornate frescoed buildings, elaborate fountains, and its history as a wealthy trading town, with accommodations ranging from B&Bs in historic villas to rustic mountain refuges.
Continue reading the original article