health
February 3, 2026
The pie and mash crisis: can the original fast food be saved?
There used to be hundreds of pie and mash shops in London. Now there are barely more than 30. Can social media attention and a push for protected status ensure their survival?
TL;DR
- London has fewer than 30 pie and mash shops, down from hundreds, with recent closures including a century-old Manze's.
- A surprising resurgence is occurring, with shops like M Manze's and Goddards reporting increased business, partly due to TikTok trends.
- New shops have opened, while others struggle, creating a mixed picture of the industry's health.
- Traditional customs, like not using a knife and specific ordering rituals, can be intimidating to newcomers.
- The dish's original components were eels, but beef became dominant due to economics, with eels now a side dish.
- Innovations like offering chips alongside mash are controversial among purists but can attract customers.
- Proposals for 'traditional speciality guaranteed' status are being considered for pie and mash.
- Debates exist on whether innovation or strict adherence to tradition is better for the survival of pie and mash shops.
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