health

The problem goes far beyond Noma – I’ve seen rot creeping into too many kitchens

There’s a system that creates and condones these toxic restaurant environments – and too often it’s rewarded by institutions such as Michelin

The problem goes far beyond Noma – I’ve seen rot creeping into too many kitchens

TL;DR

  • Chefs have spoken out about physical violence and emotional abuse at Noma, leading to protests and the head chef stepping away.
  • The system that creates toxic restaurant environments is fueled by profit margins, demanding guests, media, and award programs.
  • Award programs like Michelin and World's 50 Best Restaurants hold significant power but often lack basic labor standards in their criteria.
  • Unpaid internships ('stages') are common, with some chefs describing learning little while performing repetitive tasks for free, often under abusive conditions.
  • Employee compensation is frequently low, with many working long hours for modest pay, and facing workplace discrimination without recourse.
  • Award bodies like Michelin and World's 50 Best Restaurants do not adequately consider labor practices in their evaluations.
  • Alternative platforms like Home Hospitality and the upcoming VERiFAIR program are emerging to rank restaurants based on fair work standards.