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‘Hearty fare, red gingham tablecloths and chalkboard menus’: my search for the perfect bouchon in Lyon
These traditional restaurants are the culinary backbone of this gastronomic capital, but finding the real deal means tackling offal – and red wine – for breakfast
TL;DR
- Bouchons are traditional Lyonnaise restaurants, historically found in neighborhoods like Vaise, Croix-Rousse, and La Guillotière, not just the old town.
- The name 'bouchon' likely originates from bunches of straw used to mark open inns, rather than 'wine cork'.
- These establishments are defined by shared tables, checked tablecloths, pots de vin, and a significant quantity of meat, especially offal.
- The Mères Lyonnaises, female chefs of the 19th century, significantly contributed to the popularity of bouchons, with Eugénie Brazier receiving six Michelin stars.
- The article reviews specific bouchons: Le Poêlon d’Or (known for quenelles), La Meunière (for mâchon), Café du Jura (serving pâté en croûte and andouillette), Les Fines Gueules (offering vegetarian options and oxtail gratin), and Chez Hugon (praised for poulet au vinaigre).