travel
‘We are not like the rest of Andalucía’: the rugged charms of Almería, Spain’s desert city
While Málaga battles overtourism down the coast, this ‘forgotten’ working port city revels in its outsider status
TL;DR
- Almería, unlike nearby Málaga, is an under-visited Spanish port city with a rich history and a unique charm.
- The city is located in Europe's only desert and feels like a remote outpost, with close ties to North Africa.
- It retains an authentic, working-port atmosphere, with a focus on business at its docks rather than tourism.
- Key attractions include the 10th-century Alcazaba, the historic La Chanca quarter, and numerous tapas bars.
- Almería has a strong cultural identity, celebrated through its museums, artistic movements, and dedication to leisure.
- The surrounding area offers wilder coastlines and the Cabo de Gata-Níjar natural park, a desert landscape used in many films.
- Author Gerald Brenan was captivated by Almería's "poetic" and "forgotten" atmosphere, finding a unique excitement there.